The development of vitamin A by DSM starts the commercial upscaling

Representative material for sampling has been made available to selected DSM customers, with full-scale commercial production and launch planned for early 2023. By unleashing the inherent qualities of nature, Vice- DSM’s president of biosciences and process innovation, Ronald Gebhard, said the company is “radically transform the way vitamins are made”.

Take advantage of environmentally friendly ingredients

This decision is in line with DSM’s vision to make its products carbon neutral by 2050.

Speaking to CosmeticsDesign-Europe, Parand Salmassinia, VP Personal Care and Aaoma at DSM, said: “Eco-responsibility is becoming a huge movement in the beauty and personal care industry. By developing a process inspired by nature and based on renewable raw materials, we reduce waste and emissions of greenhouse gases, thus taking a significant step towards the NetZero50 ambitions of DSM and our customers.

Joerg von-Allmen, Vice President of Vitamin Category Management at DSM, added: “Until now, the only way to meet the growing demand for vitamin A was to build new multi-stage chemical production facilities requiring more limited resources. DSM’s new bio-based process will significantly reduce the carbon footprint and waste of vitamin A manufacturing while still producing the premium quality customers have come to expect.

von-Allmen continues: “We expect this breakthrough to cause all vitamin A manufacturers around the world to reconsider how they will invest to accelerate the transition to a healthier future for people and the planet, away from traditional chemical-based processes. limited resources.​.”

Production of biobased vitamin A

DSM is said to have refined the potential scalability of vitamin A production through a comprehensive approach at six of its facilities, including the United States, the Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland, which worked together to transform the first laboratory work into a high-tech and scalable biotechnology process. .

It was the company’s research and development labs in Lexington, Massachusetts, USA that discovered that a specially developed strain of yeast could convert a renewable carbon source into vitamin A. The yeast is genetically optimized to make the high purity product, but is removed from the final product.

“The biotechnology approach emerged as the most promising, building on DSM’s skills in advanced biotechnology and vitamin A isolation and purification,” Gebhard told CosmeticsDesign-Europe. “As soon as we were able to isolate vitamin A from bio-broth, with a purity profile similar to the current product, we realized we had something revolutionary at our fingertips.”

Our new all-bio process relies on commonly available renewable raw materials and results in a lower carbon footprint and less waste while delivering the industry-leading quality expected from DSM,” he added.

Popularity of Vitamin A

Vitamin A – often called retinol – is known for its immune and digestive health benefits. A leading ingredient in skincare products, it is used for its anti-aging compounds in treatments to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and blemishes and increase collagen production.

DSM hopes the innovation will give more brands, especially those in skincare, the ability to offer more choices to consumers. “Retinol, in particular, enjoys high consumer awareness thanks to its trusted image and superior efficacy and we expect an increase in retinol-based products,”said Salmasinia.

A scientific discovery in 1947 at the Swiss health and vitamin company Hoffmann-La Roche, which was acquired by DSM in 2003, led to the manufacture of commercial production of vitamin A. DSM produces vitamin A in a factory of Sisseln, Switzerland, from where it is distributed worldwide to the cosmetics and personal care industries.

Vitamin A is one of the most demanded and trusted cosmetic ingredients on the market and we will now be able to offer an alternative with significant environmental benefits,”said Salmasinia. “Our innovation will help DSM customers lead their product categories in sustainability, providing a significant contribution to their climate change actions and net zero goals.”

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