MILAN — When Milan Beauty Week organizers first presented the initiative this year, they said they aimed to replicate the successful format of the city’s Design Week and Fuorisalone event to the beauty. It was therefore fitting that the inaugural edition of MBW started on Tuesday at the ADI Design Museum in Milan.
Here, skincare brand Bakel unveiled its latest innovation, the Jalu-3D, which blurs the lines between design and formulation. The result of seven years of research by the Italian company from Udine in collaboration with the universities of Ferrara and Padua, Jalu-3D is a patch composed of micro-scratches of pure hyaluronic acid.
Its particular criss-cross structure enhances the benefits of skin care, starting with immediate absorption and high efficiency. When applied to damp skin, the waterless formulation quickly melts and penetrates deep into the dermis, delivering a concentrated boost of the active ingredient.
Raffaella Gregoris, who launched Bakel in 2009, said such a structure allows the company to offer hyaluronic acid at a concentration 10 times higher than the average for concentrated creams and emulsions.
Bakel has invested 3 million euros in R&D to implement the technology behind the product as well as to create an American subsidiary called Bakel Corp.
As the company’s mission is to accelerate the project internationally, the US subsidiary will be responsible for implementing a direct-to-consumer digital strategy for the brand. On the one hand, the customer journey will be enhanced by AI that will help shoppers identify areas of the face where to apply patches for better results.
While Bakel’s online store has proven essential during the pandemic, supporting sales and offering key consumer insights, from 2020 the brand is also committed to expanding its physical distribution network, up to ‘here mainly relegated to Italy.
While in the domestic market, it added drugstore distribution to its existing fragrance channel – which helped Bakel record a 30% increase in sales in 2021 compared to 2020 – for the rest of the year. Europe, the company is considering partnerships with high-end retailers, starting at Le Bon Marché in Paris.
Insourcing is seen as the real turning point in the brand’s growth by its parent company Culti Milano, which acquired a 50.01% stake in the cosmetics firm in 2019 after a €2.5 million investment .
In addition to Bakel, Culti Milano’s portfolio includes the eponymous home fragrance brand and Scent Company, a business-to-business company specializing in scent branding and home fragrance development for retailers, showrooms, hotels and spas.
Listed on the Italian Stock Exchange since 2017, the Culti Milano group achieved a total turnover of 21 million euros last year, up 55% compared to the previous year. Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization increased by 54% to 5 million euros.
The Jalu-3D concept marks a new step in Bakel’s primary mission to offer solutions that optimize active ingredients. A biochemist who previously developed skincare products for private label product lines, Gregoris realized more than a decade ago that many formulations included unnecessary ingredients to deliver effective, scientifically proven benefits. . She therefore launched her own beauty brand composed of essential and concentrated formulas focused mainly on the fight against the mechanisms of skin aging.
“Efficacy is at the heart of the Jalu-3D project, which was started out of a strong desire to achieve better results,” Gregoris said, presenting research that shows the product shows first results after 10 days. According to studies on a sample of people, skin hydration and collagen both increased gradually over a three-month period, with collagen increasing by 18.4% in the first month and 37% at the end. of the third, for example.
So far, Jalu-3D has been granted five patents – relating to its chemical composition, manufacturing process and final product, among others – while more are pending, Gregoris said.
“We just tried to think outside the box. This project does not intend to replace traditional cosmetics, but to accompany them, to show an alternative solution and to give the possibility to users to obtain a different result,” said Gregoris. She added that the company was already working to replicate the project using another active ingredient as well as expanding the concept and its technology to other industries.
“But another type of Jalu-3D with a different thickness is also going to be introduced in our spas,” the founder said, listing units in luxury destinations such as Borgo Egnazia – in Italy’s Puglia region – and Casa Cipriani. , which is due to open in central Milan this summer.
Jalu-3D hit the Italian market on Tuesday, priced at 250 euros for 40 single-use patches delivered in compostable packaging.